It’s time for a new recipe, and this one’s inspired by the unkempt winter mess of our front yard. We’ve boiled up whatever nettles we could find on the path to the letterbox to make a brilliant green dough, and then filled that with a simple, smooth mix of mascarpone, toasted walnut, and lemon zest. And it’s all served on a bitter bed of radicchio, sautéed in white wine, with crunchy cacciatore sprinkled on top.

There was a time, many years ago as a young kid, when I knew the people that sold us our food. I could walk to the orchard at the end of the street for a box of fruit and veg, head off in my stroller with my nonna to collect eggs from around the corner, trade a bucket of loquats from the man two houses down.