Combine the dark rye flour and semolina, and form into a well. Gradually add the water into the centre and stir into the flour with a fork until it holds together as a shaggy mass.

Knead vigorously for 10 minutes, then seal in cling wrap and rest for 30 minutes, away from heat and direct sunlight.

While the dough rests, sweat the onions and garlic cloves in the oil over medium-high heat for 3-4 minutes, stirring constantly. Add the wine, drop the heat to low, and cover. Cook for another 20 minutes, stirring occasionally.

As the onions cook, roll the pasta dough out into long thin ropes, of about 1cm diameter. Chop into 10-12 centimetre lengths. Wrap each piece loosely around a metal knitting needle, skewer, or long piece of thick wire and then roll back and forwards, pressing gently with your fingertips. The dough should stretch along the length of the wire as you go. If your pasta seals into complete tubes like bucatini, but you’d prefer partially open fileja, allow the pasta ropes to dry out a little before rolling. Transfer to lightly floured baking paper lined trays. If not cooking immediately, refrigerate uncovered for up to one week.

Drop the fileja into a large pot of lightly salted boiling water and cook until al dente, 5-8 minutes.

Finish the sauce by stirring in the cheese and seasoning, then use tongs or a scoop to transfer the pasta directly to the pot without draining. Toss well, and then serve with extra cheese and a crack of pepper.